SMG's Couloir Report
General Notes, Mid August 2009: We had an average winter, a snowy June, and a relatively cool summer. This means we should have a rockin' alpine ice season this fall! Watch here for specific updates as things develop. We're getting freezing temperatures in the alpine (Morning skim of ice on lakes at 11k) and most of our couloirs are still white.
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This report of conditions is for alpine ice climbs in the Sierra. We will report on conditions as we see them, or as we get reports from our friends. Be aware though that these conditions change rapidly with changing weather conditions. Be aware and knowledgeable of factors leading to stable snow and ice. Understand that diminishing ice in Sierra alpine couloirs in recent years has shortened the alpine ice climbing season. Often by mid to late summer, couloirs are past their prime and shedding loose rock as it becomes unblanketed by the ice and permafrost that normally holds it onto steep mountainsides. Understand the nature of moats, crevasses, and bergschrunds, how to assess their stability, and how to manage the risks they present. Be perceptive enough to back off in poor conditions and understand how your position and duration in terrain affect your risk. Be safe and enjoy the climbing!
Mt. Whitney/ Mountaineers Route
Upcoming Trips:
Custom Courses
Conditions: August 9, 2009 No mandatory snow.
A great Mt. Whitney Resource
U-Notch
Upcoming Trips:
Custom dates only
Conditions: August 16, 2009- Climbable/ Descendable- more info to come.
V-Notch
Upcoming Trips:
Custom Courses
Conditions:July 25, 2009 Great snow climb! Easy snow bridge over the bergschrund.
Mt. Gilbert/ North Couloir
Upcoming Trips:
Custom Courses
Conditions: August 20, 2009- This one had melted out by Fall of 2008. Fully white now due to late snow and cooler temps. Gilbert should be a good snow climb in September and possibly an ice climb by the fall of 2010.
Mt. Thompson/ North Couloirs
Upcoming Trips:
Custom Courses
Conditions: August 20, 2009- White clean and continuous. No report on the Moynier Couloir.
Mt. Darwin
Upcoming Trips
Custom Courses
Conditions: August 15, 2009- White to the summit plateau (viewed from afar).
Mt. Mendel/ Mendel Couloirs
Upcoming Trips:
Custom Courses
Conditions: August 20, 2009 No report. Will fully depend on the Fall new precipitaion.
Kindergarten Chute
Conditions: August 20, 2009- Looking white, probably good.
Checkered Demon
Conditions: August 20, 2009- Hard saying, not knowing.
Mt. Dana/ Dana Couloir
Upcoming Trips:
October 3, 2009
Custom Courses
Conditions: Sept 9, 2009- Ice on the edges- firm neve in the middle. Photos by Simon G. Bentley
North Peak/ North Couloirs
Upcoming Trips:
September 6, 2009
October 4, 2009
Custom Courses
Conditions: No Report Yet! Probably good.
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LINKS TO OTHER ICE REPORTS:
Cody Ice (Wyoming)
NE Ice (New England)
Chauvin Mountain Guides (New England)
Gravsports (Canada)
Rocky Mountain National Park Ice
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MORE INFORMATION
Ice Rating System
Great Books:
Alpine Climbing: Techniques to take you Higher!
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