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Tony "Matter" Horness on the fixed lines high on the shoulder of the Hornli Ridge.
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Matterhorn (4478 meters)
5-day or 7-day
What introduction is really needed for the most famous and historic mountain in the world? The Matterhorn is the perfect geometric mountain with four ridges, four faces, and tremendous vertical relief on all sides. The peak is an anomaly in the Alps chain in the way the glaciers have left it standing proudly isolated at the head of the Zermatt Valley. The Matterhorn is dramatic from any view and is the most distinctive peak in the Alps.
Climbing the Matterhorn is becoming part of a rich history of mountain ambition and culture. This history represents a legendary and often tragic heritage that started in the summer of 1865 when Edward Whymper and his team ascended from Zermatt up the Hornli Ridge racing guide Jean-Antoine Carrel's team (on what is now referred to as the Lion's or Italian Ridge) to become the first to summit. The team celebrated prematurely as they subsequently fell on the descent, with the rope breaking in the fall and killing 4 of the 7 climbers including celebrated Chamonix guide, Michel Croz. Ever since the mountain has been the site of many mountain tragedies for both climbers and guides.
We take this climb very seriously and, like the local guides of Zermatt, only go there on a 1:1 basis with exceptionally fit, skilled and experienced mountaineers who have demonstrated their competency prior to the climb. Weather, conditions, and a prepared team all have to converge to enjoy success on this peak. We offer this climb as a 5-day program and a 7-day program to give you the chance to train and acclimatize prior to the climb. Extra time also allows for flexibility to work around possible weather limitations. The 7-day program offers more fun climbing in the Alps, better training and preparation, more flexibility for weather. Although the Hornli ridge is the the easiest and most popular, we also offer ascents of the Lion's ridge and the Zmutt ridge. for those who are capable.
Trip Itinerary | Prerequisites | Additional Information
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5-DAY TRIP ITINERARY : Matterhorn |
DAY 0 |
Meet for a gear check at your hotel in Zermatt. Enjoy a meal together at a local restaurant. |
DAY 1
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Day climb from Zermatt. We will train by climbing the South face of the Rifflehorn. Beautiful alpine rock climbing in a spectacular setting. |
DAY 2 |
Day climb from Zermatt. Ascent of the Breithorn via the Half-traverse. One of our favorite routes to guide in the area! An amazingly exposed and varied mixed route on a 4000+m peak made accessible by the Matterhorn Paradies tram to the Kleine Matterhorn. |
DAY 3 |
Approach to the Hornli Hut. Recon the lower Hornli Ridge to prepare for doing it by headlamp the next morning. |
DAY 4 |
Climb the Matterhorn! |
| DAY 5 |
Extra day for weather. Can be used for more climbing or an exciting "via ferrata" (iron path) mountain adventure. |
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| 7-DAY TRIP ITINERARY: Matterhorn |
Day 0 |
Meet for a gear check at your hotel in Zermatt. Enjoy a meal together at a local restaurant. |
Day 1 |
Day climb from Zermatt. Ascent of the Breithorn via the Half-traverse. One of our favorite routes to guide in the area! An amazingly exposed and varied mixed route on a 4000+m peak made accessible by the Matterhorn Paradies tram to the Kleine Matterhorn. |
Day 2 |
Transport to Saas Valley. Hike in to the Almageller hut and do some alpine rock training. |
Day 3 |
Traverse of the Dri Hornli. Stay at the Almageller hut |
| Day 4 |
Traverse of the Weissmies (4023 meters). Descend to Saas Grund and transport back to Zermatt. |
| Day 5 |
Approach to the Hornli Hut. Recon the lower Hornli Ridge to prepare for doing it by headlamp the next morning. |
| Day 6 |
Climb the Matterhorn! |
| Day 7 |
Extra day for weather. Can be used for more climbing or an exciting "via ferrata" (iron path) mountain adventure. |
* Itineraries are flexible to accomodate weather, conditions, and ability levels
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Prerequisites:
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Excellent physical fitness and stamina
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Prior multi-pitch rock climbing to 5.8
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Ability to climb 3rd, 4th and easy 5th class rock with mountain boots and/or crampons quickly, safely, and efficiently at altitude
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Prior experience technical ice climbing
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Solid general mountaineering skill and technique with ice axe and crampons
Additional Information
Trip Cost:
5-Day
$2875 for 1 climber
7-Day
$4025 for 1 climber
Trip Cost Inclusions:
- UIAGM Mountain Guide
- Group climbing equipment
- Meals and lodging in mountain huts
- Lodging in hotels in Chamonix for a miximum of 5 nights, on a shared basis
- Mountain Rescue Insurance
Trip Cost Exclusions:
- Personal climbing equipment
- Food in town
- Snacks, lunches, or drinks in the mountains or at huts
- Travel expenses to/from Chamonix
- Transportation expenses during trip such as lifts, trains, buses, taxis, etc.
Click here for a trip report, photos and stories from a recent trip.
Click here for current weather in this region.
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