Guided Trips to the Sierra Nevada & Worldwide!

The immense East Face of Middle Palisade.

Middle Palisade (14,012 ft.)
East Face - Class 4

Middle Palisade may very well be the finest alpine climb of its grade in the High Sierra. Situated at the head of the South fork of Big Pine Creek, it is one of the crowning 14'ers of the range. This is an excellent climb in a very scenic and uncrowded part of the Sierra. Camping at Finger Lake is a sublimely memorable experience. This alpine climb involves crossing the upper Middle Palisade Glacier to get to the moderate rock climbing of the East Face. The climbing is never too difficult, allowing us the full enjoyment of moving in the mountains, and it puts us very quickly in an airy and wild position on the immense, open face of a very big Sierra peak. For its purity of aesthetics, this climb should be on the tick list of every Sierra climbing neophyte and accomplished alpinist alike.

Trip Itinerary | Prerequisites | Additional Information

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TRIP ITINERARY: Middle Palisade: East Face

DAY 1

 

We meet for breakfast and a final gear check in Big Pine. Our adventure starts at the Big Pine Creek trailhead at Glacier Lodge. Our approach route takes us up 3,000 feet in 4 miles to a beautiful camp at Finger Lake beneath Middle Palisade.

DAY 2

 

 

Alpine start and ascend 2100 ft. to the glacier. From there, cross the upper glacier and climb the 1000 foot face to the summit. Head back to camp at Finger Lake.

DAY 3

 

Pack up camp, and descend the trail to Glacier Lodge.

Trip Reports:

Sept. 19 2011

Sept. 15 2011

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Prerequisites:

  • Prior wilderness camping experience
  • Excellent physical fitness and stamina
  • Basic rock climbing skills
  • Able to walk and scramble over rugged trail and cross-country mountain terrain with a pack.
  • Prior ice axe and crampon use
  • Check back for a trip report, photos and stories from a recent trip.

Additional Information

Approach: 7.5 miles: 5 on a good trail and the rest X-country with a little glacier travel. 5,000 ft. of elevation gain

Total gain: 6,200 ft.

Check back for a trip report, photos and stories from a recent trip.

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TRIP DETAILS

Dates:

Custom Dates

Trip Length:
3 days

Trip Difficulty:
Level 2

Cost per day:
1 climber $425
2 climbers $275 each

Recommended Prior SMG Programs:
Discover Rock Climbing!

Mt. Emerson- SE Face

Bear Creek Spire- NE Ridge

Recommended Follow-up SMG Programs:
Mt. Whitney- East Buttress

Rock Climbing 2

Mt. Conness- North Ridge

 

"Guide was fantastic;  He basically taught me on the fly, No exaggeration. A trip of a lifetime. The perfect balance of scenery, physical exertion, and being just outside my comfort zone all the while being coaxed along by a great guide made this a trip to remember." - Steve G. about Neil