Mt. Whitney/Mt. Russell


		Guided Trips to the Sierra Nevada & Worldwide!

The Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell from the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney.

Mt. Whitney (14,496 ft.) & Mt. Russell (14,086 ft.)
Two great 14’ers in one outing. This trip gets the High Sierra Value Award for quality and quantity of perfect granite climbing. "Why just climb one fourteener when you can climb two?" After an outstanding climb of Mt. Whitney's East Face or East Buttress, consider adding Mt. Russell while you are there. Overshadowed by Mt. Whitney, Mt. Russell often gets overlooked, but this granite giant has dozens of world-class routes to choose from and no hiker's path to the top. First climbed by Norman Clyde in 1926 it was one of the last California Fourteeners to be climbed. In the 1927 Sierra Climb Bulletin Clyde wrote,” Picking my way along the crest, or along shelves a short distance below it, I advanced towards the western eminence, which I reached by hoisting myself over large granite blocks. There was no cairn or evidence of a previous ascent. It was just such an eyrie that delights the heart of a mountaineer.”

Trip Itinerary | Prerequisites | Additional Information

TRIP ITINERARY: Mt. Whitney and Mt. Russell
DAY 1	Meet for a gear check and hike up the adventurous North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. This day is strenuous and passes over the famed Ebersbacher Ledges before ascending to Lower Boy Scout Lake. From there, we continue up past Upper Boy Scout Lake and on to high camp at the foot of the enormous summit pyramid at Iceberg Lake (12,640').
DAY 2	Climb Mt. Whitney to the summit by either the East Face (III, 5.6+) or East Buttress (III, 5.7). Descend via the Mountaineer's Route (4th class). Sleep at high camp.
DAY 3	Climb Mt. Russell to the summit by either the Fishhook Arete (III, 5.9) or the East Ridge (4th class). Descend via the South Couloir back to high camp.
DAY 4	One of the best ski runs- from the Trient Hut, down the amazing Val d’Arpette, to the small lakeside mountain village of Champex. The classic Haute Route, through Verbier, is justifiably the most popular way to go, and is a skier’s favorite. We travel to Verbier by bus, then by ski lift back up into the mountains. We arrive in the afternoon at the Mont Fort hut, complete with showers!
back to top

Prerequisites:

Prior wilderness camping experience
Excellent physical fitness and stamina
Prior multi-pitch climbing experience to 5.8, and comfortable climbing 5.9 at altitude
Experience at altitudes above 11,000’
Prior ice ace and crampon use (conditions dependent)

Additional Information
Check back for a trip report, photos and stories from a recent trip.

Click here to read other News about SMG

Click here for current weather in this region.