An alpine guide hard at work during a course.
We are sorry to announce that custom courses are no longer available. For all AMGA course questions or sign ups, you must contact the AMGA directly. www.amga.com
AMGA Contract Alpine Guides Course
The Alpine Guides Course provides the foundation needed to work towards becoming a Certified Alpine Guide. With an in-depth, hands-on approach to the mechanics of guiding on alpine terrain, we teach technical guiding skills during a number of alpine ascents and evaluate all of the different basic components of and strategies for alpine guiding; from belay systems to risk management and client care. The 10-day course introduces all the skills that a proficient guide might draw upon while leading an alpine climb anywhere between Mt. Washington's Pinnacle Gully and Mt. Whitney's East Face.
What is taught in the Alpine Guide Course?
In the alpine environment, efficient travel through moderate but exposed 3rd and 4th class terrain often presents the greatest challenge to the guide. Great emphasis is placed on short-rope and short-pitch techniques, both on snow and rock. Other elements that receive attention include route finding, techniques for protecting and traveling with multiple clients, track setting in snow, strategies for rappelling and lowering clients, navigation skills, belaying on snow and ice, and strategies for transitioning between different guiding systems. While this course is not necessarily taught on glaciers, some
glacier travel skills and crevasses rescue for guides will also be covered.
The following skill areas will be presented by the course instructors:
• macro and micro route-finding skills
• evaluating anchor construction as it relates to guiding
• choosing appropriate belay methods for rock and snow
• efficiently organizing belay stances for multiple clients
• descending with clients
• escaping belays
• traveling with improved safety in third-and fourth-class terrain
• how to prepare and orient clients
• selection and use of appropriate equipment
• guides anchors in rock, snow, and ice.
• managing time and pace
• communicating with and managing a group
• performing improvised small-team rescues
• improvised ascending methods
• raises, lowers, and rappelling with clients
• how to evaluate safety and aggressiveness in your own guiding
Trip Itinerary | Prerequisites | Additional Information