11 Jul Early Summer News!
Summer is here in the Eastern Sierra and we couldn’t be happier to be able to get into the mountains and start climbing on the routes that make this range famous. With the heatwave sweeping across California, the snow has been melting quickly and the number of routes now accessible without boots and crampons is growing by the day. The mosquitos are definitely out, so now is the time to be up high to avoid the heat, the bugs and the holiday crowds. Our guides have been getting out a bunch recently, both for fun and with guests, so let’s check in and see what they have been up to!
Kevin McGarrity (AMGA Certified Rock Guide/Assistant Alpine Guide) got out to sample the ultra-classic North Arete of Bear Creek Spire and North Ridge of Mount Conness before moving on to the venerable East Buttress of Mount Whitney. We love the North Ridge of Conness as either a fun 1 day outing or as a training climb for larger routes, and there are scheduled dates this summer that you can jump on!
One of the backbone guides of SMG’s winter ice climbing programs, Michael O’Connor (AMGA Certified Rock Guide/Certified Alpine Guide), went up to the big glaciated peaks of the North Cascades in Washington State to participate in his Alpine Exam, a 9-day program that tests candidates to a very high level. We are happy to say that Mike crushed his exam and is now one of the small number of Certified Alpine Guides operating in the Eastern Sierra!
Perhaps one of the coolest alpine rock objectives guided this season so far was an ascent of the mega-classic Positive Vibes (IV 5.11) on the Incredible Hulk, made possible by the sendy-ness of Paloma Farkas (AMGA Certified Rock Guide/Apprentice Alpine Guide). Her guest, Henry, had this difficult route on his tick-list for a while and not only sent it, but did it in a day car-to-car! Paloma was also able to get in an ascent of Temple Crag’s Venusian Blind Arete, which still has some snow at the base and crampons and an ice ax are still useful.
Ryan Huetter (IFMGA Mountain Guide) has mostly been using his rope skills on a massive roofing project at his home, but he has recently been able to come out of mountain guide retirement and get back into the mountains, doing some prep climbs for clients heading to the Alps on such routes as Mount Emerson’s beautiful Southeast Face. Over the last few days he was able to escape the heat by heading up to the Palisades. Ryan and his guest cruised the classic ridge traverse between Thunderbolt and Polemonium Peak in a day, knocking out 4 of the 14ers in this zone.
We have a full summer left, with trips ranging from day climbs up Crystal Crag to big link-ups in the deeper recesses of the range. Reach out to us to jump on any of these great alpine rock objectives, or to schedule your own custom adventure! Stay cool out there!
Written by IFMGA Guide and SMG Guide Ryan Huetter