Eastern Sierra Ice Report – January 4

In Conditions Reports, Eastern Sierra Ice Report, From the Range of Light & Fast by Viren Perumal1 Comment

Happy New Years Ice Climbers. We just had an amazing week for ice with super cold temps and clear skies. The Ice has been growing and the approach is in great condition in Lee Vining Canyon.

Several Parties have been swinging tools and enjoying the ice this season (since the backcountry skiing has been low tide in many areas and the lines have been long for the resort winter recreation)

I was out yesterday in Lee Vining Canyon and enjoyed a quick hike up to the ice with a solid boot pack and no post holing. This could all change by tommorow as a storm watch is in effect and flotation and avalanche considerations could be a factor for this weekend.

As always check the avalanche advisory prior to heading out to climb ice.


As for the ice – there have been some changes this past week. Chouinard Falls is seeing a lot of water running on the surface of the ice and this has even thinned out some of the ice lines that had previously been fat. Lines on the left side are thinner and the climb below the 2nd to left bolts had running water that made it out of condition for climbing.

The right side is forming up nicely and there are some alternative zones for ice below the “Tioga Cliff” (Early and cold days) and below the “green bridge”

The good news is that a few lines are formed up nicely on the main wall. With T.Hobbs rope gunning – We did a long 80M pitch up main line yesterday and had an awesome adventure up Heel – Toe (what a wild finish)

Check in for more updates and please continue to send photos and conditions to us.


flows on the north side of the canyon below the tioga cliff

The approach is well filled in with a supportable boot pack – no post holing and quick access to the ice this week

The ice was thinner on the left side than last week with a lot of running water on the surface of the ice between the 2 ropes in this photo

Overall several fun lines at Chouinard Falls

Chouinard Rigt is still forming up but is in shape for a fun “mixed” adventure

T. Hobbs cruising his way up the 1st pitch of Heel- Toe which had well bonded ice and was taking screws

The center line on Main Wall and caveman have great ice – The line right of center and spiral are still too thin to climb and are out of shape.

T. Hobbs charging up the super fun Center line on Main Wall in a Monster 80 M pitch which took screws the whole way up. Caveman to the right was also looking great with the bottom 30m being thin but going into some steep fat ice.

T. Hobbs on P. 1 of Heel Toe (PC L. Allen)


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