Matterhorn
SMG guides have been offering guided climbs of the Matterhorn since 2002!
SMG guides have been offering guided climbs of the Matterhorn since 2002! Breathtaking symmetry and perfection in geometry define its four towering faces and soaring ridges. Climb the legendary peak that crowns the Pennine Alps. Recommended as a 5 or 7 day itinerary.
We are taking custom bookings only for the Matterhorn at this time.
Climbing the Matterhorn is becoming part of a rich history of mountain ambition and culture.
What introduction is really needed for the most iconic mountain in the world? The Matterhorn is the perfect geometric mountain with four ridges, four faces, and tremendous vertical relief on all sides. The peak is an anomaly in the Alps chain in the way the glaciers have left it standing proudly isolated at the head of the Zermatt Valley. The Matterhorn is dramatic from any view and is the most distinctive peak in the Alps.
Climbing the Matterhorn is becoming part of a rich history of mountain ambition and culture. This history represents a legendary and often tragic heritage that started in the summer of 1865 when Edward Whymper and his team ascended from Zermatt up the Hornli Ridge racing guide Jean-Antoine Carrel’s team (on what is now referred to as the Lion’s or Italian Ridge) to become the first to summit. The team celebrated prematurely as they subsequently fell on the descent, with the rope breaking in the fall and killing 4 of the 7 climbers including celebrated Chamonix guide, Michel Croz. Ever since the mountain has been the site of many mountain tragedies for both climbers and guides.
We take this climb very seriously and, like the local guides of Zermatt, only go there on a 1:1 basis with exceptionally fit, skilled and experienced mountaineers who have demonstrated their competency prior to the climb. Weather, conditions, and a prepared team all have to converge to enjoy success on this peak. We offer this climb as a 5-day program and a 7-day program to give you the chance to train and acclimatize prior to the climb. Extra time also allows for flexibility to work around possible weather limitations. The 7-day program offers more fun climbing in the Alps, better training and preparation, more flexibility for weather. Although the Hornli ridge is the the easiest and most popular, we also offer ascents of the Lion’s ridge and the Zmutt ridge for those who are capable.
-
Included
alpine climbingclimbing Swiss AlpsMatterhornSwitzerlandZermatt Valley -
Not Included
14ers3D chute3rd pillar3rd Pillar DanaAIAREAIARE 1AIARE 2AlaskaAlaska skiingalpinealpine rock climbingAlpsAlps climbingAlps runningAlps skiingAlps trilogyAmerican Mountain Guides AssociationAMGAavalanche awarenessavalanche coursebackcountrybackcountry 101backcountry skiBackcountry Skiingbackcountry snowboardbackpackingBear Creek SpireBerner OberlandBernese OberlandBishopBishop SkylineBlacksmith PeakBloody MountainBreakthroughBridgeportCaliforniaCalifornia fourteenerscampingCardinal PinnacleCarson PeakCelestial AretesChamonixChamonix climbingCharlotte Domechefclassic rock climbclassic Sierra rockclimbclimbingclimbing campclimbing skillsClyde MinaretConvict Creekcookcoursescourses instructioncramponCrest tourCrystal Cragcustomcustom private skiDana PlateaudestinationsDevil's SlideDolomitesDolomites climbingDouble Eagle ResortDream BowlEast ButtressEast FaceEastern Sierra climbingEastern Sierra skiingEastern Sierra WinterEigerEvolution LoopexamfastpackingFishhook AreteFour SeasonsFranceGlass CreekGrindelwaldguide courseHaute Routeheli assistedheli skiingHemlock RidgeHigh SierraHigh Sierra skiinghigh tourhikingHorse CreekhorsesHorsetail FallsHut to Hutice 101ice axeice climbingice climbing courseIncredible Hulkinstructionintermediate levelinternationalintroductoryintroductory ice climbing courseItalyJohn Muir TrailJohn Muir WildernessJune LakeJune MountainJungfrauKautz Glacierkidskids climbing programsLas Vegaslee viningLee Vining arealee vining canyonlevel 1level 1 refresherlevel 2light and fastlightweightLone PineLone Pine PeakLovers LeapMammoth LakesMammoth Lakes to YosemiteMammoth MountainMammoth to JuneMammoth to YosemiteMatterhorn PeakMcGee CreekMerriam Peakmixed climbingMonchMont BlancMont Blanc runMount ConnessMount DanaMount EmersonMount GabbMount HumphreysMount MillsMount Rainiermountain runningmountaineeringMountaineers RouteMt ConnessMt. DanaMt. EmersonMt. HumphreysMt. RussellMt. SillMt. TomMt. WhitneyMt. WinchellmulesmultidaynegativesNevadaNorth PalisadeNorth Peaknorth ridgeonion valley to mt. whitneyOrtlerOwens River Gorgepack outfitpack supportpackerspalisadesPalisades Glacier Camppeak descentsPeter CroftPine CreekPolemonium PeakportersPositive Vibrationsprivateprivate customprofessional developmentRed and White MountainRed Dihedralred rockRed Slate Mountainrescue skillsRitter Rangerockrock 201rock climbingRock CreekRock Creek to MammothSabre RidgeSan Joaquin RidgeSawtoothsself arrestself belayself rescueSequoia National ParksherpasSierraSierra 5.10sierra alpineSierra Mountain GuidesSierra NevadaSierra skiingsingle pitch instructorskiski guidingski mountaineeringski tourski touringskiingsnowsnow skillssnowboardSPIsplitboardsportsport climbingStarlight PeaksupportedTahoeTemple Cragthird pillarThompson PassThunderbolt PeakTiogatrad climbingtrail runningtraverseTuolumneTwin LakesUltra Trail Mont BlancultralightValdezVia Ferratawhite linewilderness tripwinterYosemiteyosemite national parkYosemite skiYost MeadowZermatt
| 5-DAY TRIP ITINERARY : Matterhorn | |
| DAY 0 | Meet for a gear check at your hotel in Zermatt. Enjoy a meal together at a local restaurant. |
| DAY 1 | Day climb from Zermatt. We will train by climbing the South face of the Rifflehorn. Beautiful alpine rock climbing in a spectacular setting. |
| DAY 2 | Day climb from Zermatt. Ascent of the Breithorn via the Half-traverse. One of our favorite routes to guide in the area! An amazingly exposed and varied mixed route on a 4000+m peak made accessible by the Matterhorn Paradies tram to the Kleine Matterhorn. |
| DAY 3 | Approach to the Hornli Hut. Recon the lower Hornli Ridge to prepare for doing it by headlamp the next morning. |
| DAY 4 | Climb the Matterhorn! |
| DAY 5 | Extra day for weather. Can be used for more climbing or an exciting "via ferrata" (iron path) mountain adventure. |
| 7-DAY TRIP ITINERARY: Matterhorn | |
| Day 0 | Meet for a gear check at your hotel in Zermatt. Enjoy a meal together at a local restaurant. |
| Day 1 | Day climb from Zermatt. Ascent of the Breithorn via the Half-traverse. One of our favorite routes to guide in the area! An amazingly exposed and varied mixed route on a 4000+m peak made accessible by the Matterhorn Paradies tram to the Kleine Matterhorn. |
| Day 2 | Transport to Saas Valley. Hike in to the Almageller hut and do some alpine rock training. |
| Day 3 | Traverse of the Dri Hornli. Stay at the Almageller hut |
| Day 4 | Traverse of the Weissmies (4023 meters). Descend to Saas Grund and transport back to Zermatt. |
| Day 5 | Approach to the Hornli Hut. Recon the lower Hornli Ridge to prepare for doing it by headlamp the next morning. |
| Day 6 | Climb the Matterhorn! |
| Day 7 | Extra day for weather. Can be used for more climbing or an exciting "via ferrata" (iron path) mountain adventure. |