Mt. Whitney & Mt. Russell
Mt. Russell is right next door to Mt. Whitney and an amazing way to summit both incredible peaks.
At Sierra Mountain Guides we always say,” Why climb one fourteener when you can climb two?” Yes, that’s right we always say that. Mt. Russell is right next door to Mt. Whitney and an amazing way to summit both incredible peaks. The classic combinations are either Mountaineer’s Route & East Ridge or East Face/Buttress & Fishhook Arête, depending on your ability and gumption.
This program is suggested as 4-days and can be arranged on a custom private basis at our custom private rates.
Summer 2023 Dates:
– July 27-30
– August 10-13
– September 1-4
Mt. Whitney (14,505′) and Mt. Russell (14,086′)
Dozens of world-class routes to choose from and no hiker’s path to the top.
Two great 14’ers in one outing. This trip gets the High Sierra Value Award for quality and quantity of perfect granite climbing. “Why just climb one fourteener when you can climb two?” After an outstanding climb of Mt. Whitney’s East Face or East Buttress, consider adding Mt. Russell while you are there. Overshadowed by Mt. Whitney, Mt. Russell often gets overlooked, but this granite giant has dozens of world-class routes to choose from and no hiker’s path to the top. For those that can climb at the 5.9 grade, we recommend the Fishhook Arete, in our opinion without doubt the proudest and most aesthetic line on the peak. First climbed by Norman Clyde in 1926 Mt. Russell was one of the last California Fourteeners to be climbed. In the 1927 Sierra Climb Bulletin Clyde wrote:
Picking my way along the crest, or along shelves a short distance below it, I advanced towards the western eminence, which I reached by hoisting myself over large granite blocks. There was no cairn or evidence of a previous ascent. It was just such an eyrie that delights the heart of a mountaineer.
IncludedalpineclimbingEastern Sierra WinterMt. RussellMt. Whitneyrock
Not Included14ers3D chute3rd pillar3rd Pillar DanaAIAREAIARE 1AIARE 2AlaskaAlaska skiingalpine climbingalpine rock climbingAlpsAlps climbingAlps runningAlps skiingAlps trilogyAmerican Mountain Guides AssociationAMGAavalanche awarenessavalanche coursebackcountrybackcountry 101backcountry skiBackcountry Skiingbackcountry snowboardbackpackingBear Creek SpireBerner OberlandBernese OberlandBishopBishop SkylineBlacksmith PeakBloody MountainBreakthroughBridgeportCaliforniaCalifornia fourteenerscampingCardinal PinnacleCarson PeakCelestial AretesChamonixChamonix climbingCharlotte Domechefclassic rock climbclassic Sierra rockclimbclimbing campclimbing skillsclimbing Swiss AlpsClyde MinaretConvict Creekcookcoursescourses instructioncramponCrest tourCrystal Cragcustomcustom private skiDana PlateaudestinationsDevil's SlideDolomitesDolomites climbingDouble Eagle ResortDream BowlEast ButtressEast FaceEastern Sierra climbingEastern Sierra skiingEigerEvolution LoopexamfastpackingFishhook AreteFour SeasonsFranceGlass CreekGrindelwaldguide courseHaute Routeheli assistedheli skiingHemlock RidgeHigh SierraHigh Sierra skiinghigh tourhikingHorse CreekhorsesHorsetail FallsHut to Hutice 101ice axeice climbingice climbing courseIncredible Hulkinstructionintermediate levelinternationalintroductoryintroductory ice climbing courseItalyJohn Muir TrailJohn Muir WildernessJune LakeJune MountainJungfrauKautz Glacierkidskids climbing programsLas Vegaslee viningLee Vining arealee vining canyonlevel 1level 1 refresherlevel 2light and fastlightweightLone PineLone Pine PeakLovers LeapMammoth LakesMammoth Lakes to YosemiteMammoth MountainMammoth to JuneMammoth to YosemiteMatterhornMatterhorn PeakMcGee CreekMerriam Peakmixed climbingMonchMont BlancMont Blanc runMount ConnessMount DanaMount EmersonMount GabbMount HumphreysMount MillsMount Rainiermountain runningmountaineeringMountaineers RouteMt ConnessMt. DanaMt. EmersonMt. HumphreysMt. SillMt. TomMt. WinchellmulesmultidaynegativesNevadaNorth PalisadeNorth Peaknorth ridgeonion valley to mt. whitneyOrtlerOwens River Gorgepack outfitpack supportpackerspalisadesPalisades Glacier Camppeak descentsPeter CroftPine CreekPolemonium PeakportersPositive Vibrationsprivateprivate customprofessional developmentRed and White MountainRed Dihedralred rockRed Slate Mountainrescue skillsRitter Rangerock 201rock climbingRock CreekRock Creek to MammothSabre RidgeSan Joaquin RidgeSawtoothsself arrestself belayself rescueSequoia National ParksherpasSierraSierra 5.10sierra alpineSierra Mountain GuidesSierra NevadaSierra skiingsingle pitch instructorskiski guidingski mountaineeringski tourski touringskiingsnowsnow skillssnowboardSPIsplitboardsportsport climbingStarlight PeaksupportedSwitzerlandTahoeTemple Cragthird pillarThompson PassThunderbolt PeakTiogatrad climbingtrail runningtraverseTuolumneTwin LakesUltra Trail Mont BlancultralightValdezVia Ferratawhite linewilderness tripwinterYosemiteyosemite national parkYosemite skiYost MeadowZermattZermatt Valley
|TRIP ITINERARY: Mt. Whitney and Mt. Russell|
|DAY 1||Meet for a gear check and hike up the adventurous North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. This day is strenuous and passes over the famed Ebersbacher Ledges before ascending to Lower Boy Scout Lake. From there, we continue up past Upper Boy Scout Lake and on to high camp, generally either at Upper Boy Scout Lake for the easier routes and Iceberg Lake for the more technical routes.|
|DAY 2||Climb Mt. Whitney to the summit by either the Mountaineer's Route (class 4), East Face (III, 5.6+) or East Buttress (III, 5.7). Descend via the Mountaineer's Route. Sleep at high camp.|
|DAY 3||Climb Mt. Russell to the summit by either the East Ridge (class 3) or Fishhook Arete (III, 5.9) or another rock climbing route. Descend via the South Couloir back to high camp, or back down the East Ridge to camp at UBS Lake.|
|DAY 4||Hike out feelin' good! If you have the energy, wake up for a sunrise hike to get some photos or for the technical climbers we recommend some high quality climbing at the Whitney Portal.|